I 



•i^ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

... Copyright JJ 
Shelf. Jv-A-fc 



Chiip. Copyright JJo, 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



■m^ 



C^:?!^I3BEI512"'S 



Practical Work on Coat Cutting, 



WITH 



Diagrams and I'ull Instructions How to Use Them. 



. ALSO 



A COMPLETE HISTORY OP THE SYSTEM. 



Concise History of the Origin and Progress of the Art. 



This Work Contains the Relation of the Old Systems of Cutting to the Scientific 

AND Practical Experience of the New; the Establishment and Growth of 

Knowledge in the Art and Mystery of Cutting, Especially 

IN THE United States of America. 






I=ISICE, ^5.00. 




^LtlpOl) ~^ 



^1 



KALAMAZOO, MICHIGAN: 

KALAMAZOO PUBLISHING COMPANY, 

1896. 



a 



^ 



Entered According to Act of Congress in the Year 1896, 

By JAMES JOSEPH CARBERY, 

In the Office of tbe Librarian of Congress, 

At Washington, D. C. 



rf} /o-'^^^'l 




PREFACE. 

As Gibbon has said, ^^ Every man lias tivo educations — one ivhich he receives 
from others, and one, more important, ivhich he gives to himself.'''' 

Sir Walter Scott says: " The best part of every man's education is that -which 
he gives himself.^'' 

The mind has been endowed with no tnore laudable or profitable ambition than 

that of self improvement. The educated cutter carries with him his own capital. 

The ability to not only fit the form of his client but to impart the grace and style 

peculiarly his own, is a treasure which every cutter should fully appreciate and 

strive to possess. 

In preparing the present work, the author has endeavored to omit no point 
that may be useful to the cutter. It is customary to burden the initial pages of a 
new publication with apologies. The author of this work has none to make. He 
has invested twenty four years of the best of his life, together with a great amount 
of diligent, paintaking labor and research, atid recognizes the fact that it must 
depend upon merit atid excellence for its success. 




INTRODUCTION. 

IT is our good fortune to live in an age whose master-pieces of accomplishments in Science, 
Industry and Commerce put to shame the extravagant fictions of oriental tales and the 
wonders ascribed to the gods and heroes of ancient history and mythology. The changes 
produced by recent investigations and discoveries are so vast and rapid that it is difficult to 
comprehend the power and the thoroughness of the transformations that are taking place in the 
world around us. The application of steam and electricity astonish us by their wide-spread 
influence over the condition and relation of men; the ease and speed of movement and 
intercourse constantly increasing, are ever putting us in new and unfamiliar situations. We 
have hardly accustomed our thoughts and habits to one before we are hurried on into another. 
The constant and abundant light shed by Science, or the press, does not suffice to keep our 
minds fully up to the progress that goes on in all departments of life. 

It is plain that we have entered upon a new era, the most extraordinary and momentous the 
world has ever seen. The old and imperfect is being cleared away, and everything thoroughly 
reconstructed. The explanation is that we are now setting up the grand temple of civilization, 
the separate stones and pillars of which, each nation and age was commissioned to hew, 
carve, and leave in the quarry awaiting the time when, all the mateiial being ready, the 
Master Builder should collect all the scattered parts and raise the whole edifice at once, to the 
astonishment and joy of all mankind. 

It is plain that the general mind moving us has grown clearer and more accurate in its 
judgment as experience has accumulated, and former incongruities are being laid aside, and 
oversights corrected. Likewise the rapidity of growth in Scientific Coat Cutting is being more 
clearly revealed every day. Yet more intelligence and more care would have saved us many 
shocks, and made our success pronounced and more brilliant. 

Knowledge is power, when wisely applied, and more intimate acquaintance with more 
practical and accurate cutting, as well as true measurements, will assist cutters to correct all 
defects in all the old rules of cutting, and enable them to speedily reach that acme of 
perfection in practical cutting. I, therefore, urge you to accept the efforts of a practical man, 
who shall give you the fullest information in all its details. 



THE INDENTATION AND MOW TO TAKE MEASURES. 

The Indentation Measure at neck is taken by placing a yard-stick perpendicularly between 
shoulder blades and center of hips; while in this position, measure in from stick to nape of neck. 

HOW TO TAKE MEASURES. 

1"* OCATE nape of neck as at 1. Locate 2 with a strip of zinc 18 or 20 inches long and 1>^ 
I P inches wide, with a spirit level on one end. Place end under arm, and bend the other 
end across the back, keeping it level, and mark 2 on customer. Then measure half way 
between 1 and 2, and put a mark for 6. Locate natural waist. Now commence and measure 
from 1 to 6, to 2, to natural wai.st, to fashionable waist, and full length of coat. Put long arm of 
square under arm of customer, with short arm pressed close to back of arm, and make mark at 
17, and from 17 to elbow, and continue to wrist bone for length of sleeve. ♦Place instrument 
under the arm and in the position represented on diagram. Measure from 8 to 2, blade 
measure, and from 8 to 3 the ecliptic measure, and from S, up the front of arm-hole, to nape of 
neck at B. From 8, up the front of arm-hole over shoulder, to 6; this measure finds the center 
of shoulder at dot. Now measure from 8, up in front of arm-hole and over shoulder, to 2. This 
gets the slope of shoulder which locates dot on top of shoulder point. Then take breast 
measure and also waist measure and top of hip. I never take the scye measure, as I get 
everything exact without. It can be taken if you wish. The sleeve is cut as explained. The 
measures for a Frock or Surtout Overcoat, or for a Sack Overcoat, should always be taken 
over an undercoat. 

MEASURES AS TAKEN. 

n Depth of Scye, with addition of yi inch ^H 

17 Natural Waist I'i' 

19 F"ashionable Waist 1" 

33j^ Full Length for Cutaway 33>4 

37>^ Prince Albert ^'^H 

29 " " " Single- and Double-Breasted Sack 29 

40 " " " Overcoat -^O 

7 Width of Back, with additions ^H 

20>^ to P^lbow, with additions 21 

31 Full Length 31 

11 ^ Blade Measure, with additions 12^ 

12Ji Ecliptic |2H 

IIH First Over, ' " 13 

13^ Second Over, " " 1^ 

16"^ Third Over, " " 17^ 

8% Small of Waist, " " I'A 

.834 Spring for Skirt, " " ^n 

37 Breast Measure °^ 

34 Waist Measure 34 

This will show the necessary additions to be made when measures are taken over vests; 
these additions will also be added to overcoat measures when taken over undercoats. 



* The instrument that locates 8, 10 and 11 is made of stiff brass. It is 21 inches long. fi'A inches from top 
have a short arm 9 inches long, with spirit level on end of it, so as to locate perfectly 10 and 11 on Ime with H on 
front of scye. 




JJ'firbery's 
Codt Sijsten). 



DIAGRAM J. 



CARBERY'S PRACTICAL WORK ON COAT CUTTING. 



PRINCE ALBERT OR DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK: 

DIAGRAM I. 

The measure, with additions, are: 

9 Depth of Scye 9j^ 12^ Ecliptic Measure 12.V^ 

17 Natural Waist 17 11^ Front Shoulder Measure 13 

19 Fashionable Waist 19 13^ 2nd Front Shoulder Measure. 15 

37>4 Full Length 37>4 16j4 Slope of Shoulder IHA 

7 Width of Back 7 8^ Small of Waist 9^ 

20y2 to Elbow 21 8K Hip Measure 9^ 

31 Full Length of Sleeve 31 37 Breast Measure 37 

Ui/i Blade Measure 12^ 34 Waist Measure 34 

> jt jt TO DRAFT ji j» ^ 

COMMENCE by squaring lines A5 and AB. From A to 2 is the front measure taken from 
8 to B, with one inch added. From 2 to 1 is depth of scye plus l-i inch. From 1 to 3 is 
natural waist, 4 is fashionable waist, o full length. 6 is half way between 1 and 2. Square 
lines 1, 6, 2, 3, 4 and 5. Go in one inch at 3 and 5. *From 1 to 7 is >^ of half breast measure 
and }i of an inch added. Go up ^4 of an inch to 7. From 6 to 17 is width of back. Draw line 
up and down from 17. Go up from 17 1 •/ inches. Go down from 17 1 '/< inches. Make width of 
back at 3 and 4. Shape back as represented. From 2 to 8 is blade measure. From 8 to 3 is 
ecliptic measure. Whatever the difference is from 8 to 3, take out same between back and 
side-body on ecliptic line. Measure size of back at 3 and place the amount at 10, and measure 
back to 13, add 1 inch. Measure back at 4 and place the amount at 11, and measure back to 
14; add 1 inch to measure. Draw line from 13 through 14 for spring of skirt. Add a little 
round on skirt over seat. Now shape back according to style. Now shape back of side-body 
according to line on ecliptic; take out (under the arm) the difference between small of waist 
and ecliptic measure. Divide the width of shoulder of back by 3, and place '3 the measure in 
front of 8 at 20. Square up at 20 to 15. From B to IC) is half of shirt-collar measure with -"4 of 
an inch added. From 2 to 9 is half breast measure. Measure back at 3 and place the amount 
at 13. and measure half of waist to 12. From 9 to front on breast is 3 inches, and from 12 to 
front on waist is 2-'4 inches. The lapel is 2 inches at bottom, and 2'^ inches at breast line, and 
2'/6 inches at top. Now measure from (5 to 21, place the amount at bottom of scye at S, and 
measure up to 22. This gives the height of shoulder in center. Cut out back. Place 15 and 7 
together, 21 and 22 together. Shape shoulder. Shape arm-hole, taking out a little at top of 
side-body. Shape front of skirt as represented. 

Jt Jt THE SLEEVE j* ^ 
TTT HE Sleeve is one of the most important points in coat cutting, and should be drafted with 
I the body of the coat, that it may fit perfectly the coat for which it was intended, and not 
any and all coats in general. 

jt ^ TO DRAFT SLEEVE ^ j* 

DRAW line in front of arm up and down. Square line 8 and 2. Square line 13-3 from line 
in front. Go up from 8 l^{ inches and square across. Measure from this point 1% 
inches above 8 up to point of shoulder, and apply this amount to back and measure down 
to 17. Whatever the measurement is, make that the distance from 1 '4 inches above 8 to the 
back part of sleeve on line 17 and 6. Square down from this point, and shape top of sleeve 
through shoulder of back and strike line 17 in front of scye and down to top line 1^ inches 
above 8. Go out 1-24 of half breast measure at this point, at 8. Go out 1-12 at 10. Draw line 
from 1-24 through 1-12. Go in 1 inch for under sleeve at back. Measure width of back; apply 
this to top of sleeve. Measure to 18 at elbow, and to 19 full length. Make sleeve at bottom 12 
inches when made up. Hollow the sleeve % inch at 10. This is the only sure method of 
cutting a sleeve and having it fit and look well. 

* Draw line from 1 to 3 and from 3 to 5. 




DIAGRAM 2. 



CARBERY'S PRACTICAL WORK ON COAT CUTTING. 11 



CUTAWAY. 

DIAGRAM 2. 

The measures, with additions, are: 

Depth of Scye Oy. 12^ Kdiptic Measure 12->i 

17 Natural Waist 17 11 K Front Shoulder 13 

19 Fashionable Waist 19 13^ ~nd Front Shoulder Measure. 15 

33>^ Full Length 33 ^^ 16,'4 Slope Shoulder 17^ 

7 Width of Back 7 S^" Small of Waist ^% 

2'i)y2 to Elbow 21 ^34 Hip Measure 9K 

31 Full Length of Sleeve 31 37 Breast Measure 37 

WY), Blade Measure 12^ 34 Waist Measure 34 

TO DRAFT. 

gQUARE lines A5 and AB. From A to 2 is the front measure taken from 8 to B. with 1 
inch added. From 2 to 1 is actual depth of back scye measure plus >4 inch. From 1 to 
3 is natural waist, and to 4 is fashionable waist; 5 is full length. 6 is half way between 1 
and 2. Square lines 1, 6, 2. 3, 4 and 5. Go in 1 inch at 3 and also at 5. Draw line from 1 to 3 
and from 3 to 5. From 1 to 7 is '^ of half breast measure plus 3^ inch. Go up 3/, inch to 7. 
From 6 to 17 is width of back. Draw line up and down from 17. Go \\\> from 17 1>4 inches. 
♦Make back 1\i inches wide at 3 and 4, and for all sizes over 45 breast make the back at 3 and 4 
3 or 2?R inches. Now shape back as represented. From 2 to 8 is blade measure. From 8 to 3 
is ecliptic measure. Whatever the difference is from 8 to 3, take out the same amount on the 
ecliptic line, as represented on draft. Measure size of back at 3 and place the amount at 10 and 
measure back to 13 plus 1 inch. Measure size of back at 4, place the amount at 11, and measure 
back to 14; add 1 inch. Draw line from 13 through 14 for spring of skirt. Add a little round 
over seat in skirt. Now shape back of side-body according to line on ecliptic, and take out, 
under the arm, the difference between small of waist and ecliptic measure. Divide the width of 
shoulder of back by 3 and place y'l in front of 8 at 20. Square up from 20 to 15. From B to 
16 is half the size of shirt collar with 34 inch added. From 2 to 9 is half breast measure. Add 
3j4 inches from 9 to front. Measure width of back at 3, placing the amount at 13, and measure 
to 12, half waist measure; add 3>^ inches to front. Measure from 6 to 21, placing the amount 
at bottom of scye at 8, and measure up to 22 to get height of shoulder in center. Cut out back 
and place 15 and 7 together and 21 and 22 together. Shape shoulder as represented. Shape 
arm-hole. Take out J^ inch at top of side-body between top of back. Shape front of skirt as 
represented on diagram. 



* Go down from 11 l!4 inches. 




DIAGRAM 3. 



CARBERY'S PRACTICAL WORK ON COAT CUTTING. 13 



SINGLE- AND DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK. 

DIAGRAM 3. 

The measures, with additions, are: 

9 Depth of Scye 9yi 12;< Ecliptic Measure 123^ 

17 Natural Waist 17 11^ Front Shoulder Measure 13 

19 Fashionable Waist 19 13^ 2d " " " 15 

29 Full Length 29 ]6«4 Slope of Shoulder 17^ 

7 Width of Back 7^ 8>4: Small of Waist 9^ 

20y2 to Elbow 21 8K Hip Measure 9% 

30 Full Length of Sleeve 31 37 Breast Mea ure 37 

11^ Blade Measure 12?4 34 Waist Measure 34 

TO DRAFT. 

gQUARE lines A5 and AB. From A to 2 is the front shoulder measure taken from 8 to B 
with 1 inch added. From 2 to 1 is depth of scye on back plus yi inch. F"rom 1 to 3 is 
natural waist; 5, full length of coat; 6 is half way between 1 and 2. Square lines 1, 6, 2, 3, 
4 and 5. Go in 1 inch at 3 and 5. Draw lines from 1 to 3 and from 3 to 7>. Hollow back at 3 
}4 inch. From 1 to 7 is >§ and }i of an inch. Go up ^4 of an inch. From 6 to 17 is width of 
back. Draw line from 17, up and down, to bottom of coat. Go up I'/i inches from 17 for 
shoulder. Take out a half inch from back at 23. Shape back. From 2 to 8 is blade measure. 
From 8 to 3 is the ecliptic. Whatever the difference is from 8 to 3, take out on ecliptic line 
between back and side, as represented. Measure size of back at 3, placing the amount at 10, and 
measure back to 13. Measure back at 4, placing the amount at 11, and measure back to 14. 
Add 1 inch to 13 and also to 14. Draw a line from 13 through 14 for spring of hip. Now 
shape side of fore part according to ecliptic measure through 20 to bottom. Take out, under 
the arm, the difference between small of waist and ecliptic measure. Divide the width of 
shoulder of back by 3, and place 'j the amount in front of 8 at 20. Square up from 20 to 
15. Go down on line 20 }i breast measure and square out to 16. Measure the size of shirt 
collar to 16 and add ^ inch. From 2 to 9 is half breast measure, and from 9 to front is Syi 
inches. Measure back at 3, placing the amount at 13, and measure out to 12, half waist 
measure. From 12 to front coat is 3% inches. For a double-breasted coat there should be 
added i}i inches to breast from 9 to front, and from 12 to front 4}{ inches. Now cut out back 
and put 15 and 7 together, also 21 and 22. Shape shoulder and arm-hole. Center of shoulder 
is found the same as on the other drafts. 




(pdl ogslen). 



DIAGRAM 4. 



CARBERY'S PRACTICAL WORK ON COAT CUTTING. 15 



OVERCOAT. 

Diagram 4. 

The measures, taken over the undercoat, with their additions, are as follows: 

10 Depth of Scye 10^ 13^ Ecliptic Measure 13^ 

nyi Natural Waist 17 J^ 12 Ji Shoulder Measure (front) 14 

40 Full Length 40 U% 2d " " " 16 

7%: Width of Back 7^ 17j4 Slope of Shoulder 18}i 

21 to Elbow 2iy2 9 Small of Waist 10 

31 Full Length of Sleeve 32 9>^ Hip Measure \0y, 

12^ Blade Measure 13^ 39 Breast Measure 39 

36 Waist Measure 36 

TO DRAFT. 

^XQUARE lines A5 and AB. From A to 2 is front measure taken from 8 to B, with 1 inch 
(^ added. 2 to 1 is depth of scye on back, with % inch added. From 1 to 3 is natural 
waist; to 5, full length; 6 is half way between 1 and 2. Square lines 1, 6, 2, 3, 4 and 5. Go 
in an inch at 3 and 5. Draw line from 1 to 3 and from 3 to 5. From 1 to 7 is >^ breast measure 
and }i of an inch added. Go up % inch. From 6 to 17 is width of back. Add yi inch. Draw 
line from 17, up and down, to bottom of coat. Go up from 17 1^ inches for shoulder line. 
Take out % inch from back at 23. Shape back, and hollow j4 inch at 3 in center back. From 

2 to 8 is blade measure. F"rom 8 to 3 is ecliptic measure. Whatever the difference from 8 to 
3, take out same amount on ecliptic line between back and forepart. Measure size of back at 
3, placing the amount at 10, and measure back to 13. Measure back at 4, placing the amount at 
11; measure back to 14; add 1 inch to these two measures at 13 and 14. Draw a line from 13 
through 14 for spring of coat. Now shape side of forepart according to the ecliptic measure 
through 20, and take out, under the arm, the difference between small of waist and ecliptic 
measure. Divide the width of shoulder of back by 3, and place yi in front of 8 at 20. Square 
up from 20 to 15. On line 20 go down from 15 ^^ breast measure. Measure back from B to 16 
half collar measure plus ^ inch. From 2 to 9 is half breast measure. Measure size of back at 

3 and place the amount at 13, and measure out half waist measure to 12. From 9 at breast to 
front of coat is 6 inches for double-breasted, and from 9 to front 4j4 inch in fly front. F"rom 12 
to front in a double-breasted, add Sj^ inches; in a fly front, add from 12 to front 4 inches. Now 
measure from 6 to 21 on back, and place the amount at 8, and measure up to 22 the height of 
center of shoulder. Now cut out back and place 15 an*-^ together and 21 and 22. Shape 
shoulder as represented. Shape arm-hole. Take out J4 inch between back and top of forepart 
on side. Shape as represented on diagram. 



16 carbp:ry's practical work on coat cutting. 



KNIGHTS templar Coats are cut the same as a single-breasted frock coat, with the 
exceptions of a half inch smaller on breast and waist with a full skirt. Made with side 
edges in the back pleats, and also with a standing collar Ij^ inches in back and l}{ inches 
in front at neck. Nine ball buttons on front divided equally from collar to waist seam. Two 
buttons on top of hip and two buttons on bottom of side edges. For double-breasted for 
Kniinent and Past hlminent Commanders, add the lapels extra, with 9 buttons on each side 
of breast. 



A 



military blouse is cut the same as a single-breasted sack, with only 3 inches 
added to breast and waist, instead of 3j^ inches as sack. 



THE CASSOCK is cut tight-fitting in body, with a very full skirt with 3 large box pleats — 
one box pleat in center of back and one on each side of hip. Cut to waist, same as frock 
coat. Back at waist is 3 inches wide, and from waist down same as a ladies' ulster. The 
front is closed with from 38 to 40 buttons of vest size. The Cassock should be long enough to 
reach to within 3 inches of the heel of shoe. Standing collar. 



T 



HE clerical frock is cut the same as a Knight Templar coat, with the omission of 
side edges in back, and only C buttons on front, spaced evenly. 



T 



he COACHMAN'S OVERCOAT is cut the same as a frock overcoat, with the lapels 
straight at top instead of slanting, and a turn-down collar, with side edges in back pleats, 
with 6 buttons on each side of breast and 3 on each side edge. 



T 



HE FOOTMAN'S FROCK is single-breasted, with 4 buttons on front and 3 on side edges 

in back pleats. 



T 



HE RAGLAN is a single-breasted overcoat, with sleeves running up to a point in the neck 
seam. It is very seldom worn in this country. 



A 



COAT FOR HUNCHBACK is drafted the same as any coat. The actual measures place 
the extra goods in the place where it is most needed. 



